Now this entry might seem like a bit of a boring, lecture type of entry but safety is something that we can all benefit from scrubbing up on a bit every now and then. And if you are new to climbing then this is definitely for you!
I’ve divided this post up into little sections so you can easily find your way around. I will be mainly talking about sport climbing, boulderers are adrenaline junkies so wouldn’t listen anyway (joke!) Anyway I’ve outlined the basics and any doubts that you have feel free to drop a comment and we can discuss it!
Gear check:
First things first you need to check that you have all the gear and the correct gear: i.e don’t try and go climbing in your flip-flops and bikini!
The main elements are a harness, shoes, and a helmet. You need to make sure that these all fit. Gear that is too big can mean painful falls or accidents. For harnesses the most important thing is the colour of course…. err I mean you need to make sure the waistband sits above the hips. Here you can find a really good video about fitting a harness.
The leg straps and waistband must fit snuggly and that nothing should be too baggy (sorry gangsta fashion is not really an option in climbing). A harness that is too big can slip and can even cause you to fall out and not be at all protected, you don’t want to look like this poor girl… hopefully no-one was harmed here...
Shoes and helmet much like a harness need a snug fit that you are comfortable in. I personally am not a fan of shoes so tight your eyeballs pop out but we will talk about that in another post.
Rope check:
Next is your rope. You need to check that you have no centre strands showing and that your rope is long enough for where you want to climb. Oh and make sure it is actually a climbing rope, your fishing mate that lent you a good strong rope from his boat is not to be trusted. A good trick to check if your rope has wear is to try and pinch the rope together and if you can make the rope bend back and touch then it's nearing cutting time.
Tie a knot at the other end of the rope:
ALWAYS ALWAYS tie a knot at the other end of your rope. Too many accidents happen because the rope runs out as the climber is being lowered down. Even if the route is not even half the length of your rope make sure you do it and that way you’ll make a good habit out of it. If you are worried about this you can start climbing in groups of three: a climber, a belayer and a dead rope holder. The third person basically holds onto the other end of the rope and should there be a problem (such as a belay error or the rope getting tangled) they act as a backup. For the first time you can be a third wheel and actually feel important!
Quickdraws:
You need to regularly check your quickdraws for general wear and tear - keep in mind that the first clip and the anchor clips are always the ones that get the most wear. You can dedicate your thickest quickdraws for these positions. Try to always leave draws at the anchor whilst you are working on the route to not wear the anchor down. Also be very careful with fixed draws - these are often in overhanging routes that are difficult to clean and can be a godsend in scary sections. However, you need to always check that they are in good condition with not too much wear on the carabiner or the strap, don’t hesitate to change them if you think they look dodgy - the climbing community will thank you for it.
Knot this not:
The climber ideally needs to tie into the rope. You can use many types of knot (well maybe not a shoelace knot) but the most common are the figure of 8 or the bowline knot. Make sure you tie your knot calmly and without distractions, this will avoid mistakes and or incomplete knots. Lynn Hill describes in her autobiography a rather nasty fall she had from the anchor of a climb after getting distracted whilst tying in and not completing her knot. She went to sit in her harness at the top and the knot undid itself and she wenting flying. Thankfully by some form of miracle she balled up and landed in a tree, escaping with only a few bruises. So if you’re unsure of your knot, check out any landing trees before climbing (joke!).
Partner Check before climbing:
Is the climber's knot correct and passed through the right loops in their harness?
Is the belayer's device properly prepared and attached to the right loop in their harness?
Is the carabiner on the belay device locked?
Is there a knot at the other end of the rope?
The correct loops on a harness are the ones you can find at the front, the side loops are for storing gear and quickdraws only - they are not in any way load bearing.
If the person is also your romantic partner give em a kiss or if they are a friend a fist bump, it doesn’t really add to your safety but it makes you both feel better!
Clipping:
You should place the clips with the back side of the lower clip facing the direction of where you are going to climb next and you should clip the rope in so it passes from bottom to top, rock side to outside, to avoid "back clipping" :
Take the rope from your harness to avoid z-clipping and communicate with your partner as to when you need slack to give them time to give you rope and avoid them jamming their belay device (especially important when your belayer can no longer see you). This will avoid lover’s quarrels of “COMMUNICATE!!!!” “Jesus, I fell because you didn't give me slack for the clip…” etc.
Check out this brilliant video from Epic TV with Jonathon Siegrist. He explains clipping in depth. However, he doesn’t mention the position of the clip in the bolt so watch out for that! Ideally the clip in the bolt should be clipped outwards (like in 02:51 of the video, or in the photo above) there is a slight chance that clips can become undone from the bolt due to rope drag. Plus, some people say this is even more likely than back clipping, so get it right!
Anchor:
When you get to the anchor and you want to keep the clips in, make sure you also put draws in the anchor to avoid unnecessary wear to the anchor. When you want to clean the route make sure the anchor consists of two fixed points. These can be joined by a chain or you might have to join them by passing your rope through two separate points. If you think the anchor is dodgy or could do with replacing in Spain there is a chatbot that you can use to report such things.
His name is Bolty, check it out!
When you are going to clean the anchor and lower off from it make sure you go in hard to do any maneuvers and double check the ropes and knots before lowering off. Much like the quickdraws the rope needs to pass through the anchor from bottom to top, rock side to outside. Make sure you go over the lingo with your partner before you climb to make sure you both know what to shout at each other to guarantee optimum communication rather than just: OK!! ALRIGHT! OK!! ARE YOU GOOD? YEESS DOWN!
Belaying:
As a belayer you have to constantly be adjusting your slack to make sure that should your climber fall, they will get a good balance between not hitting the deck and not face planting the wall. The number one rule for belaying is to assume that your climber can fall at ANY MOMENT, that way you’ll pay attention and will be less likely to panic and slam your partner into the rock or give them a bad catch. To be honest belaying can sometimes be more stressful than the actual climbing! As a climber don’t hesitate to tell your belayer to watch you or shut up or that now is not the time to try one of those tasty cookies that your friend brought to the crag. Communication is the key.
Another thing you might see a lot of at crags is people letting go of the dead rope (the other end of the end) especially whilst using a GriGri. GriGris are not autostoppers! They are assisted braking mechanisms and have been known to release - ALWAYS ALWAYS keep a hand on the dead rope. It has that name for a reason! You can still put your hands in your pockets to keep them warm or even explain that tricky section to your climber all whilst holding onto the rope. So do it!
Leg position:
This is something you always need to keep a lookout for whilst climbing. Try and always place your feet so that your legs are never between the rope and the wall. Should you fall in this position you could flip. Along with many other safety tips, you can find a good diagram explaining how this is possible here.
Clip-sticking:
If the first bolt is high up or the starting section of the climb is difficult and you could fall and deck, don't hesitate to clip the first clip or clips either by using someone's shoulders and getting a boost or by using a clip stick. If you are lowering off the climb you can also unclip higher clips to leave the first clip with the rope in for the next climber.
Crag research:
This may seem like an obvious one but make sure you know where you are going and if you are allowed to climb there. Check out the approaches and be certain that everyone in the party can get there - some approaches have fixed ropes and are not that suitable for excitable dogs or clumsy people(!) Once at the base of the wall check out where to leave your gear and/or children, it wouldn’t be the first time that someone has almost dropped gear on some poor child’s head.
General safety:
Know which emergency numbers you need to call in case of an accident and insurance is not a bad idea because last I heard helicopter tickets are not cheap. A small first aid kit in your bag can be a lifesaver and the most important rule of all…
HAVE FUN!!
Disclaimer: these are all recommendations and we are not responsible for you actually hurting yourselves. If you are unsure of anything please seek the advice of a qualified climbing guide.
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